Tanzanite faceted ovals

How to Clean Gemstone Jewelry

Gemstone and gold ringWhat's the best way to clean your treasured gemstone and pearl jewelry? An ultrasonic cleaning machine? A steam cleaner? Some high-tech chemical solution?

We tend to think of gemstones as indesturctible - after all, they're rocks, aren't they? While many colored stones are tough and durable, others are prone to chipping, cracking, scratching, surface damage and can even change their color if subjected to some of these popular cleaning methods! Ultrasonic cleaners in particular, while great for cleaning plain, karat gold jewelry, will wreak havoc on many colored stones.

If your jeweler gave you special cleaning instructions when you purchased your jewelry, follow those instructions - your jeweler knows best! If not, read on.

The simplest way is the safest

The safest way to clean jewelry with pearls or colored stones is ... just wiping it clean with a soft, dry cloth!. Your jeweler may sell soft, lint-free cloths intended just for this purpose, or a piece of soft flannel will do. This is a very effective method for everyday cleaning and it's hard to go wrong. You certainly aren't likely to damage the stones themselves, although vigorous rubbing could remove a stone from an "iffy" setting. Be careful with antique jewelry and beaded items like strands of pearls, bead necklaces and stretch bracelets. (Note: some commercial jewelry cleaning cloths are chemically treated or contain mild abrasives and may not be right for all types of jewelry - follow the label precautions.)

If a soft cloth doesn't do the trick, your jewelry needs more thorough cleaning. The safest way to "deep-clean" gemstone jewelry is with warm water and a little bit of very mild soap or dish detergent. Use a soft-bristled brush (like a baby's toothbrush) to reach dirt hidden in crevices of settings and clasps. On soft materials, like pearls or amber, use a soft-bristled cosmetics brush, like the ones used to apply powdered makeup or eye shadow..

Another relatively safe trick for loosening dirt on colored stones? One of those dental "Water Jet" or "Oral Irrigator" appliances! (I recommend the cordless variety.)

Some precautions

Some substances require a little extra care, even around something as innocuous as soapy water:

Amber - Amber is very easily scratched. If you must use a brush, use a very soft brush like those little brushes used for eye shadow..

Pearls - The best way to clean pearls is to wipe them with a dry cloth after each time you wear them. It's usually safe to clean pearls with soap and water occasionally. Pearls are soft and easily scratched - scrubbing them is definitely not recommended!. If you need to loosen dirt, you can use something extremely soft like a cosmetics brush.

After cleaning, lay them out flat and make sure they are completely dry before storing or wearing them. Since washing can weaken and/or stretch the string, you shouldn't wash pearls more than once or twice a year, and you should have them restrung after a couple of cleanings.

Emeralds - Many emeralds are treated with oil to improve their appearance and surface texture. Because of the nature of emeralds, this is standard practice in the jewelry industry and so common that, unless you know otherwise, you should assume your stone is treated. Don't scrub emeralds too hard or use anything stronger than a very mild soap on them.

Rubies and Sapphires - Like emeralds, some rubies and sapphires are sometimes oiled to enhance their color and clarity. If you know your gem has been oil treated, avoid hard scrubbing or strong detergents.

A few other common, materials that should be cleaned with caution: Ivory, Malachite, Shell, Shell Cameos, Mother of Pearl, Tortoiseshell and Turquoise. For costume jewelry or imitation stones, you're probably best off sticking with the "soft cloth" method of cleaning.

Last but not Least:

Many colored stones can fracture if dropped on a hard surface. If you're cleaning your jewelry over a hard countertop, put a protective cloth or mat on your work area. If you're cleaning it in a sink, put a rubber mat down in the bottom of the sink. And don't forget to close the drain stopper so you don't lose your precious items down the drain!